RGB LED Matrix

Discussion in 'Cool Prints' started by thevoltmaster, Oct 12, 2014.

  1. Well, A matrix of 1 (you can see where I burned off the pads of the other 2 LED's but I'm clearly still learning how to do SMD work properly....
    I'm apparently unable to upload a video to the forum, so I'm going to post a youtube link
    Ariel likes this.
  2. Ariel

    Ariel Staff Member

    Awesome-sauce! You may have printed the first non-calibration print of any user! (other than us).

    What are you connecting it to off screen? Have you considered using a connector rather than soldering the wires right to the board?

    How were you soldering these? With an iron, hot air, hot plate, or oven? (or 5th option).
  3. its connected to an arduino off screen. Is there a way to robustly connect the connector to the board? I guess I should glue it as just about anything I did pulled the traces off (which this board quickly failed due to moments after shooting this video) I tried to solder first with a hot air tool but found that too harsh on the LED so the next two attempts were with an iron and solder paste. Im curious about how a hot plate option works, maybe that would work better for me. Additionally, I attempted to print the same circuit on kapton and found the traces even more fragile. I knicked one with the iron and destroyed the whole thing. Is there a way to reinforce the traces? It seemed like the slight bending of the kapton was enough to cause the traces to flake off.
  4. Ariel

    Ariel Staff Member

    I definitely wouldn't suggest using an iron. I find that the localised heating tents to ruin the traces more often than anything else. Stick with the hot air gun! :D A technique that I learned recently is to hold the gun slightly further away from the board (maybe 10 cm, or less) and move it around in a swirling motion for about 30 seconds to warm the entire area gently, then move the gun in for the kill over the desired component. It tents to mean that the last part happens far quicker and leads to much less melting of components.

    Did you print these with ascorbic+? What did you do after you finished printing them?
  5. I used ascorbic + and then after about 12 layers, I washed the board, and then dried it with a (low power) heat gun

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